Sunday, April 23, 2017

Installing the wood dowels

The plans call for a "wood dowel" to be inserted in the rudder frame at the bottom joint with the spar, and the middle support tube.  The kit did not include dowels or screws, so I went to the local Lowes and bought a pack of #6 x 1" stainless steel countersunk screws and a 7/16 wood dowel.

I should have done this step before riveting the frame to the top of the spar, because a good deal of bending was required to re-fit the dowels in the joints.


First, I shaved a little off the diameter of the dowel so it would fit snugly into the tube.  Then, I cut two 1 and 3/4" lengths of the shaved-down 7/16 dowel.  I used a #45 drill bit to drill a 1 inch guide hole for the screws in the top of both dowels.

 
I then countersunk the 1/8"hole on the front of the spar so the screw would sit relatively flush.
 


Next, I screwed the dowel in tight and fit the frame tube over the dowel.

 
The tube fit around the dowel snuggly and is quite firm in its place.  It is not riveted or screwed directly into the spar and, right now, is held in by the surface tension of the dowel, but I assume the final covering will hold it tight in its slot.


Repeated the same step on the middle support and am done for the night.  Again, I should have done this step before riveting the tube frame into the top of the spar.  I'll do the real rudder in that order.

Planning time = .5 Hours

Saturday, April 22, 2017

Well, that didn't work as expected.

After the work last night and posting the pictures, a builder with obviously more knowledge than me said "I believe  you may have overlooked a major issue related to bending the tempered aluminum tubing - spring back.  It is impossible to form the tubing over an exact pattern. The tubing must be bent well past the desired shape, held for a few seconds for a "set", then allowed to spring back."

Whoops.

So much for the "quick, easy, and rewarding" promise from the kit manufacturer about the build. It seems to me that you need quite a significant about of metal-working experience and engineering training.  That I don't have.  The problem is the instructions are not as detailed as hoped and have some "there are several way to do this and no one right way" statements.  Now, I don't want to seem like I am degrading the manufacturer because, by all accounts and brief personal experience, he is responsive and will talk things over on the phone.  However, the thousands of calls I envision for every bend have me embarrassed, so I'm trying to not call him whenever possible.

Long story short, as much as I desperately want to do this project, I'm starting to have thoughts that I don't have the engineering qualifications required for this project.  I can drill and clean holes, rivet sheet, safety-wire bolts, and many other things related to aircraft.  But, there is a lot more fabrication in this project than expected.

Still, I'm pushing forward with the practice rudder.  I gradually formed the rudder frame with a small series of had bends outside the form.  Below are the pictures of the work done tonight.  I'm not all that happy with the work, as I want something that will carry me in the air to be built as precise as possible.  Ironically, the advice I keep getting is from builders telling me to not worry:

"This is not an F18, so do not drive yourself crazy with minute precision"
"We are building airplanes....not heart valves"
"Perfection is the enemy of completion"
"Airplanes, and in particular AA aircraft, are simple (crude?) machines
where precision is only required in a few areas"
"Keep it simple light and strong 'enough' !"
And my favorite:"you're building an aeroplane......not a pocket watch! "

I get it, I really do.  Micrometer precision on metal bends aren't practical.  However, when you have an office job and no formal A&P or engineering training, I have no real idea of what mistakes are safe to work with and what ones compromise safety (in some instances). That makes me paranoid, especially without step-by-step instructions.

That said, here are tonight's pictures from the practice rudder build.  Please comment and be critical if you see something wrong.  I need it.

The final rudder frame, not a precise as I wanted.

Marking the rudder spar for cutting

Using the marks to drill a 1/2" hole for the rudder frame slot

Testing the hole with a 1/2" drill bit after using a step-bit to drill the hold and deburring it.

Cut along the line, which turned out to cause problems

Here is that problem demonstrated with a 1/2" drill bit:  the walls of the slot don't go up high enough to attach a rivet.


Used the tube notcher to drill out the hole deeper to give more metal area on the sides for rivets.
Test fit works, so the spar then went to the sander to smooth and debur before drilling and riveting.
Used a rubber mallet to hammer the sides flush against the rudder frame.
After the test fit, the spar and the frame are marked and drilled with a #30 bit for the rivets.
The finished rivets.  Not too happy with the finish (the term "wonky" comes to mind).
My biggest concern:  the structural integrity of the rivets with the gap in between the frame tube and the spar walls. Of all these photos, this is the one I REALLY want comments on.
The bottom of the spar was drilled as instructed with a #30 hole in the forward side and a 1/2" hole on the rear for the rudder frame.



The fit was nice and tight after trimming the rudder frame.
This is the fit inside the spar.  The plans call for screwing into wooden dowels placed inside the rudder frame tube.  I'm not really understanding that part, and there were no dowels in the kit.  PLEASE HELP!  What do I do here?

Next, the same #30 in the front and 1/2" hole on the rear for the middle support strut/tube/whatever it is called...



Test fit looks good after notching the end of the strut, deburring, and sanding the cuts.

Next, cutting and fabricating the gussets for the left and right of the support strut.  These were mage with 0.032 sheet, marked and trimmed to match the curve of the rudder. Made two, one for each side.

The finished and riveted gusset for the middle support strut.

Top view of the riveted gussets.



The other side...

Finally, where I stopped tonight. I need some help understanding exactly how the middle and bottom tubes are to be attached to the spar, so that is the next step.

 Well, there it is.  It seems to be coming together, but I am really having doubts about my ability to finish this.  Comment and tell me what you think.

Planning time = 2.5 hours
(again, this is the practice rudder)

Friday, April 21, 2017

Bending the rudder frame (practice run)

Now with everything I need in place, the construction begins in earnest.  Well, not really...  this is the practice rudder build to make sure I know what I am doing.  One piece of advice I received early on is that, when you buy something for your build, buy three.  Ne a blueprint enlargement? Get a backup.  Need 50 rivets?  Get 200. Good advice for an endeavor like this where precision of the build for a novice like me requires extra effort.

This weekend, I started the practice rudder.  Stopped by the local Lowes and picked up a 2' x 3' board so I could make a form to bend the rudder around.


 I have a total of four enlargements printed of the tail section, so I figured the easiest way to get as exact of a form as possible was to get out the Exacto knives and trim out a template to trace.  An important note here, notice that I am cutting the blueprint along the inner portion of the drawing.  Easy logical step to miss if you are not careful, but important because the 1/2 inch tube will be bent around the form in the place of the tube on the blueprint.

 
Once that was fully cut out, I now had a template I can trace onto the board to cut the form.  I used a few tabs of masking tape to hold the template firm to the board and traced out the form with a pencil.  Notice the rudder spar is still on the template, meaning we will have extra length of tube once the bend is complete.  That will be trimmed up in the final fitting stage.
 
 
Looks good!  Removed the template (and saved it).  The traced rudder form looks clean and smooth.
 
 
Got out the trusty jigsaw and cut out the template. Save the cut off scrap edges of the wood, those will be used later to hold the bent tube in place.
 
 

Starting to look like a rudder!  Even though it is just the form for the tube frame.
 
 
Although it looks like a very smooth cut (and it is quite smooth), this being an aircraft build I will go the extra mile to be as precise as possible, so out comes the trusty Harbor Freight sander to buff out the few imperfections in the curved part of the form.
 
 
Once sanded smooth and cleaned of debris, the form is laid out on the work tabled and screwed in place with a few deck screws. Two notes here that almost tripped me up.  First, make sure there is enough room (at least 2 inches or so) around the form so that you can use the work table as a sort of brace to keep the bend level along the plane of the bend. Second, notice how close my form is to the wall of the shop?  Well, that was a bad idea.  That 7' tube piece, when first starting the bend, was almost too long to bend as it was almost blocked by the wall.  Make sure you have cleared a radius around the form (on a level plane) at least as long as the tube you are bending.
 
 
To start the bend, I place the 1/2 inch tube against the form, then used another deck screw to lock it in place with a piece of wood board scrap from the cutting of the form.  The tube is longer than needed, so I left a couple inches of extra tube to trim later.  THIS IS IMPORTANT:  remember that this tube will eventually be riveted into the rudder spar, so leave extra tube on the ends and only trim to size after you fit it with the other tubes.  Last thing you want to do is trim the tube too short by an inch and have to do it all over again.
 
 
This was kind of exciting:  the first bend of tube for the aircraft.  I was very careful to bend slowly and with even torque along the way, watching for creasing of the tube.  Smooth and even pressure, no creasing observed.
 
 
With the bend complete around the form, I screwed in another piece of scrap wood on the bottom end to hold it in place. The big piece of scrap is screwed in as well, but it is not a pressure point for the bend so it is not something I needed to do, but it looks good!
 
 
Cleaned up the shop, and left the tube in the form for the night.  I'll probably take it out tomorrow and see how well it took to the shape.
 
Planning time: 1 hour
(Counting this as all planning time because it is the practice rudder, not the one that will go in the aircraft)

Saturday, April 8, 2017

Looking better every day.

The fear of biting off more than I can chew subsided a bit today. I was pleasantly surprised that, for about $12, I was able to get full-size enlargements of the diagrams, accurate to within 0.05", from the local Staples store.  Bought two of each so I have a backup, and brought them home. Looks good, right?

 
After I got home, I laid out the parts over the diagrams, slowly realizing that things were, for the most part, looking like they would go together well.  I'm starting to feel better about starting this job!  I just emailed the kit manufacture a few questions, but once I get an answer to those I should be in business.


 
 
Planning time = 1.5 hours

Friday, April 7, 2017

More preparation

When ever I talk to a builder of an aircraft, they always tell me that much more time is spent planning than building.  The question is, how much time is invested in planning?  Well, for those who might one day read this blog with the idea of building their own aircraft of the caliber, I'll be logging those hours here to give you an idea.

Todays first stop was the local Staples store.  They took my plans and promised to enlarge the two scale design diagrams to full-size according to the dimensions on the paper.  I pick them up tomorrow and hopefully they will be right, but for $11 total I wont be too upset if it doesn't work out.

I also took out the micrometer and measured everything I received in the kit.  For this part of the kit, I'm going to build a practice rudder with the same materials first, then build the actual rudder with the materials from the kit manufacturer. I went to an online metal supplier and ordered all the same tubes and sheet metal, all 6061-T6 "aircraft grade" aluminum, that came with the kit.  The price of the metal was about half of the cost of the entire rudder kit, so I am feeling much better about the cost of the kit being reasonable.  With some stainless steel rivets from Fastenal that I purchased yesterday and a few pieces of bolt hardware, I have almost an entire second kit to practice with.

Preparation time = 1.5 hours

Thursday, April 6, 2017

Measure twice, cut once

After talking it over with other builders, I've decided I need to do a dry run first at working the aluminium.  I made a trip to Fastenal, picked up some stainless steel rivets, and am ordering some aluminium sheet and tubing online.  I'll make a practice rudder first with the same material that was sent to me.  If it turns out well, then I build the real rudder.

On the plus side, buy building it with the same grade aluminium and same stainless rivets, if the build does go right I will have a spare rudder and fin in case I ever need one!

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

It's here! It's Here! IT'S HERE!!!

Out of town for work on a Monday, I get an email that says "You have a UPS delivery scheduled for tomorrow". I click on the link and, as I was hoping, it was from Airdrome Aeroplanes!  My rudder kit, and the first part of my construction journey was about to begin!  My wife sends me a picture Tuesday of the long package, proving that it was there safe-and-sound.  I admit I was giddy, thinking that I couldn't wait to get home to actually touch the aluminum that I would some day trust to carry me skyward. Home now on Wednesday, I eagerly take the package to my shop.

 
I unpacked the plastic wrap, laid out the parts, and secretly wondered if it was all there. Seemed like not many things for $385, but hey, everything with aircraft is more expensive, right?
 


Now, the worry sets in...

I go through the instructions (the standard 8 1/2 x 11 paper in the lower left of the last picture) and figure I'll  lay all the pieces out to get a sense for the job.  The first thing I notice is the small drawings of the rudder.  It is recommended to draw it to scale on some large paper sheets from Lowes, but I'm not entirely sure how to do that.  For example, the curved edge of the rudder has different curves at different points, and I have no clue how to "enlarge" the drawing by hand to the appropriate size.

On top of that, I can't help feeling that I didn't get all the parts.  The parts I have are labeled, but I am not finding them all and some of them are completely different shapes than in the drawings.  One of the gussets is on the drawing as a semi-circle, but the part with the corresponding label is a square.  Am I supposed to trim the square to a semi-circle?  The instructions don't say that, and I have two semi-circle gussets in the kit that are for different spots, so I am a bit confused.

I think I'm going to need a lot of help on this...

First thing, I'm going to have my dad (a full-fledged A&P) come down and take a look at this kit.  He will be able to tell me for sure if I am not seeing things properly and the kit is fine, or if my concerns about not having the right kit with all the parts are founded.

Time logged:  1 hour - research